(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$715.33 (kit)FREE Shipping
What's up, guys? Adam here with americanmuscle.com. And today we're taking a closer look at listening to and installing the Magnaflow Race Axle-Back Exhaust available for the 2015 and newer 3.6-liter Challengers. You should be checking this out if you're looking to ditch your factory mufflers to upgrade to a pretty much straight pipe exhaust giving you a lot louder of a volume and a little bit more drone, and of course, a raspy sound.Now, this might be for the guys who are sick of hearing the very quiet, very mellow V6 sound in their Challenger. This I would give three out of five on our loudness meter as you just heard it from our sound clips. Now, the big thing to highlight here is essentially you're cutting off your factory mufflers right behind the mid-pipe, and you're replacing it with just 2.5-inch mandrel-bent 409 stainless steel tubing straight back to a quad tip exhaust out the rear valance.Now, no muffler replacement, no resonator replacement, it is literally just straight piping. Because of that, you're getting a lot more drone than you may be used to with the factory exhaust. Some guys might hate, some guys might love. But either way, you can't deny you're getting a big change in sound for your 3.6, which most would argue, it could probably use.With that in mind, I am gonna say that this one comes in right around 650 bucks. It is a lot more affordable than an entire cat-back replacement. So, if you're looking to keep it to a tighter budget, an axle-back like this one is worth looking at. But keep in mind, it does require cutting. With that in mind, the install I am gonna give nearly three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter, not because it's a hard job to do but because it does require you to break out the Sawzall, which you might not be comfortable using. And if that's the case, make sure you're seeking out professional help to get it done properly.Now, you do not have to weld, but it is recommended when you do some cutting like this to have your axle-back welded into place. That is not what we're doing here. We actually found that our 2.5-inch and 2.25-inch clamps did the job. Some cases might not actually be that way. You may have to tack weld it on, which again isn't the end of the world, but does require that expert level of mechanical skills.With all of that in mind, it takes about an hour from start to finish, maybe two if you're not super experienced, but simple hand tools will do the trick otherwise. I'm gonna take you guys to every single step of the process starting with cutting our factory exhaust out of place, and then bolting this up. We'll take a closer look at this compared to our factory system as well, so you wanna stay tuned for that, but let's get started.Tools used in this install include an impact gun or a ratchet, an extension, tape measure, 10 and 13-millimeter swivel sockets, 15-millimeter deep socket, a 10-millimeter swivel ratcheting wrench, a hanger removal tool, PB B'laster, or WD-40, an angle grinder, a Sawzall or similar, some eye protection, and a Sharpie.Now, the first step here is, of course, to measure and then cut our factory exhaust off of our '17 3.6. Now, in order to do that, we're gonna start here on our driver side. Now, back here behind the factory resonator next to the mid-pipe, you're gonna see that attached flange portion of the driver side exhaust. Now, this is only on the driver side. And right behind that flange with the springs, you'll see a welded on hanger. We're gonna measure it from that hanger toward the back of the vehicle 11 inches. I'm gonna make a mark with my black Sharpie here. That will indicate exactly where we're cutting.We'll then gonna repeat this on the other side except instead of using that flange as a marker, we're just gonna use the weld on hanger as our marker, and I'll show you guys that in just a second. But starting with the driver side here, measure 11 inches back from that welded on hanger. Make sure you measure twice making 100% sure you've got the right location before you make your cut.Now, over here on our passenger side essentially doing the same thing. We're gonna measure from this welded on hanger, just put the edge of your tape measure right up against that, measure out about 11 inches. Make your mark. But basically, we're just gonna wrap that around just so we have a good guideline. I'm gonna cut straight across that. Now, keep in mind, you can always cut more off. You just can't put more back on. So, you wanna make sure this is as accurate as possible, right, exactly 11 inches there. That's where we need to cut. So, let's grab our Sawzall and we'll get to work.All right. So, we've got a thin curve, thin blade on the end of our Sawzall. We're just gonna make a cut straight down this line. All right. Now, we can repeat that for the other side. Now, the next step here is to grab an extension on your impact gun or your ratchet. I'm using a 13-millimeter swivel socket. You can also use a 13-deep socket, if that works for you. You're just gonna remove this bolt holding on the hanger and isolator to the body of the vehicle. Keep in mind, this is going to start dropping down, so just be careful of where your head is at.Now, the next step here is to remove our tip. Now, this is optional. You can leave the tip up there and use the provided hardware and gear included in the kit to retain the tip. But we wanna switch it up and use the tips provided for us from Magnaflow. So, what we're gonna do is grab a 10-millimeter swivel socket. I'm gonna remove these three bolts holding the tip on. And then there's one more tucked right behind the trunk here. And that's a little bit more difficult to get to. We might need a swivel ratcheting wrench to get to that. But we'll see once we get the other three off.We're gonna grab a swivel ratcheting wrench and pop that last one off. All right. So, we've got our swivel ratcheting wrench 10-millimeter. And this isn't the most fun angle I've ever worked with. But it will get the job done. So, we're just gonna try to get this nice and slowly out of this position. I know it's tough to see. But you need to push up against the wrench to get it to hook on.All right. Now, we're doing the same thing for the other side. Grab your 13-millimeter swivel again. We're gonna pop off the brackets holding the hangers and isolators to the body. And I'll be doing the same thing again with our 10-millimeter socket. We're gonna remove these three bolts. Switch over to our swivel ratcheting wrench and we get off the fourth one.Now, the next step here, we do have to clean up our pipes before we can install anything. So, grab an angle grinder or something similar. Just clean up the burr around this precut pipe. And what we're gonna do, stir on the edges a little bit. It doesn't have to be anything too spectacular. You just wanna make sure that the pipes are gonna connect pretty smoothly. So, just repeat for the other side.So, we finally got that factory axle-back cut off of our factory exhaust on our '17 3.6 Challenger. And as you can see, there's a pretty big difference between our Magnaflow kit and our factory kit, the main difference being the straight pipe design. We're getting rid of that factory muffler or the goofy shaped muffler, that, you know, really restricts that airflow, and mainly restricts the volume and tone that you would want out of a muscle car. So, straight piping it with your Magnaflow kit here is gonna drastically change that. Expect a lot more volume, a lot more raspiness, a lot more depth to it. And you're also gonna expect a very different exit style coming out of the rear.Now, this is optional, like I said earlier. So, you can retain your factory tips. We wanna swap them out for the quad tip here, which are really dual 3.5-inch polished stainless steel tips coming at the back end on each side. I like the quad tip design. It's a very modern muscle car thing that we're seeing nowadays. And this does have a 409 stainless mandrel-bent tubing, 2.5 inches from head to toe. And that's really gonna streamline that airflow as well. The mandrel bends are gonna help make sure there aren't any kinks in the piping, streamlining that airflow from your factory resonator's back to the tips.So, I really do think this is a big upgrade from the factory exhaust. Bolting this up is gonna be pretty simple. The only thing we do have to transfer over are those hanger brackets. I'm gonna pop those off, swap them on over to our welded on hangers here. They're on pretty much the same location. They'll bolt right up. And really from there, we're just gonna clamp everything together.And the one thing I will recommend before we move forward is if you find that your clamps are not getting tight enough, you can always revert back to welding them on, which of course does add an extra step of install and difficulty. But I expect that won't be too much of a problem here. So, we're gonna bolt that up directly after transferring these over. So, let's get to it.Now, transferring these hanger brackets over are pretty simple. Two things you'll need, PB B'laster or WD-40, a hanger removal tool. Now, this is not required, definitely recommended, it makes life so much easier. So, what we're gonna do first is to grab our PB. Rotate this downward. And just get it nice and lubricated on both sides just to make life a little easier. It's looking a little rusty so it's gonna need it. Do the same thing for the front, let that soak in while we work on the back.Grab your hanger tool and just pinch it off. All right. Do the same thing on the other side. All right. Now, on our passenger side, there is a ground strap. You can just unsnap that. Disconnect it and set it aside. Perfect. Let's transfer these bad boys over. Now, transferring these over is pretty simple. If you need PB, you can always lubricate the inside of the bushing. You just wanna make sure that this locking tab here is facing the front of the vehicle. Slide that all the way back. The same thing for the front, make sure that that tab is facing the front of the vehicle.Repeat for the other side. Now, if you are using PB B'laster like I am here, just make sure you're being mindful that it is gonna spray onto your tips, so you might wanna grab some detailer or something just to clean those off while you get them installed. Now, for this one, you wanna reattach the ground strap to the welded-on hanger. The next step here, we're gonna grab our pipe that we just put our bracket on. I'm gonna put a clamp on this side. This is one of our 2.25-inch clamps, so one of the smaller ones. I'm not gonna tighten this down. I'm gonna insert this over our factory exhaust pipe. And I'm gonna take one of our 13-millimeter bolts. I'm just gonna lightly by hand tighten down the bolt on this bracket to the vehicle. This way we can get it exactly where we need it to be.All right. Once you get that bolt in a couple of threads, you can grab our socket and tighten that down, and then tighten down this clamp. I think I got my 13-swivel socket here. I'm just gonna tighten down this bolt. Now we can tighten down the clamp at the back end. Grab your 15-millimeter socket. I like to rotate this upward. We're gonna tighten this down. All right. And we're gonna do the same thing on the other side. Next step, we're gonna put our tips into place here on our passenger side. We're gonna make sure we have the 2.5-inch clamp on this side. Slip that all the way back, seated into place. Make sure your bracket is lining up with the hole. And we can tighten that down. Let's grab our 13-millimeter bolt.Next step, grab your 13-socket. We're gonna tighten down that one bolt. You wanna make sure your tips are aligned where you want them. All right. Now, we can grab our 15-socket and tighten down this clamp. So, make sure you're aligning the tips where you want them. All right. Now, we can do the same thing on the other side making sure we have a clamp in place before we put our pipe up on the exhaust.Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Magnaflow Race Axle-Back Exhaust for the 2015 and newer 3.6 Challenger. You can check this kit out right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Racing-Inspired Sound. When you’re looking to give your 2015-2020 Dodge Challenger more power on the road and on the track, but also give it a far more aggressive exhaust tone, then you’re going to need some new exhaust mods. This Magnaflow Race Axle-Back Exhaust is going to give you a sound that you’ll feel in your chest when you rev your engine.
Heavy-Duty Performance. This axle-back will give you improvements in both your horsepower and torque. You’re going to have extra power from the moment you turn the key.
Stainless Steel Construction. These pipes are crafted from 409 stainless steel, some of the toughest on the market. It will protect against corrosion and road damage, ensuring this piece will stay with you throughout your Challenger’s life.
No Mufflers. This axle-back is all about the power and aggression. There are no mufflers to be found here, just 2 broad 2.50 inch pipes that deliver a super-aggressive tone. The 3.50 inch stainless tips also add classic muscle car style and focus.
Cut & Clamp Installation. The installation of this Axle-Back Exhaust system will require cutting and removing the stock muffler assemblies. The new assemblies will install in place of the old. Clamps and instructions are provided.
Lifetime Construction Warranty. This axle-back is protected for the lifetime of your vehicle against manufacturing defects. Please see Magnaflow’s full warranty for more details.
Application. This Magnaflow Race Axle-Back Exhaust is designed to fit 2015-2020 Dodge Challenger models with a 3.6 liter engine. Please ensure correct model and engine size before purchase.
Fitment: 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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