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C&L Cut and Clamp Resonator Delete H-Pipe (15-24 Mustang GT, Dark Horse)

Item 408100
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$149.99 (each)

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Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
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      Product Videos

      Jake: Jake here for American Muscle, and today I'm taking a look at the C&L Cut and Clamp Resonator Delete H-Pipe fitting 2015 to 2023 Mustang GTs. Whether you've got a stock or aftermarket exhaust on your S550, if you want better sound and exhaust flow for a low price, this is the way to get it. With solid construction and an integrated H-pipe, this resonator delete is going to get you the cool sound you want with some extra oomph to go along with it.Ask any enthusiast and they'll likely have a pretty strong preference on the H-pipe versus X-pipe debate. And while there are merits to both, if you want great sound and power lower down in the rev range, an H-pipe is going to be the move. And that's exactly what we've got here from Sandel. As the name would imply, this is going to take the place of your stock resonator. So instead of having those two, this one-piece setup replaces both. It's less restrictive and thus it's going to allow more flow than your stock setup. Even more flow comes courtesy of the integrated H-pipe as well, and having that crossover in the center there allows the exhaust gas pulses to even out.It adds a little bit more volume and allows for more flow and better power and torque at lower RPMs. And perhaps most importantly, it also eliminates any drone. So not only is this going to sound really good, but you also aren't going to get that horrible "wo-wo" type noise that can often come with unresonated exhausts. Now we're not going to be throwing this on our dyno and you shouldn't expect huge power gains, but they certainly will be noticeable, especially if you've got other breather mods already done.But the best part, well, that's, of course, the sound. Even if you've got an otherwise stock exhaust, eliminating those resonators and having the H-pipe is really going to allow the Coyote to sing its song loud and proud. It's a great classic muscle car grumble down low combined with that signature high RPM yowl that the Coyote is known for. Now, all of it is amplified just a bit more versus stock. And if you've got a GT and you're watching this video, you're definitely ready for some more noise.This is a pretty simple thing. It's basically just a couple pieces of pipes, but it's important that it's done correctly. The piping is all 16 gauge 409-grade stainless steel, and that's 2.5 inches in diameter. So it's going to match up perfectly with your factory exhaust, or if you've got an aftermarket 2.5-inch exhaust already on the car. That 409-grade steel is also going to provide you with some decent resistance to corrosion and rust. Again, pretty similar to your factory setup. Now it's not quite the same level of protection as T304 stainless, but it also doesn't carry the same type of cost.Coming in at about $200, this is a really affordable modification to make, and it's going to cost you a heck of a lot less than even an axle-back. It's arguably going to give you similar horsepower and torque gain and sound. It's also about the least expensive way to get yourself an H-pipe, so whether you're running a stock or aftermarket exhaust, it's a bargain that will get you some noticeable updates.Installation comes in at a two out of three on our difficulty meter, and it should take you about two hours to complete the job. As the name here suggests, this is going to require you to cut your resonators and utilize the included clamps to get it secured. So you're going to need a cutting wheel or a saw to make this sort of happen. It is only a couple of small cuts, but once you've got that done, the rest is just bolting it on. And here to show you exactly what you've got to do to get it installed on your own Mustang, let's throw it over to one of our AM customers.Man 1: All right, so here's everything we used. We used a little bit of degreaser to help in the installation of the pipe to kind of let it slide a little bit better in there because it's pretty tight. So that helped a lot. Safety glasses, obviously. Really important if you have rust and water and everything like that for your eyes. We use those pliers just for...we got the blade stuck in the pipe for some reason, so that helped. Torque in, loosen in, and then the torque wrench is an adapter that I got from Harbor Freight with my half-inch wrench. And then reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade on it. And then all we needed for this was a 15-millimeter socket there, so that was everything we used. That's it, align the front of the pipe up, the back of the clamps, and then you want to mark it where this bend is.Man 2: Yeah, and then we'll just cut a little bit further back than wherever your line.Man 1: This is the end of the pipe I'm marking and then where it starts to, like, flange out. There's a little bit of wiggle room with that.Man 2: Yeah, but as long as we cut a little bit more towards the back side of our line, we'll be all right.Man 1: Yep, like, towards the rear of the car. So you just got back ones for the back of the pipe, and then we're cutting. So roughly a little bit after that line. So they said to make sure that you're obviously not cutting towards the direction of the firewall. So, it's a little bit awkward depending on where you're working but...you don't have any bits of metal that are gonna be in the way. So, using 15 [inaudible 00:05:44.838] four of these. We do need to reuse these so don't lose your bolts. First one's gone. Just kind of hold it up with my elbow so it doesn't fall. Knocked that one loose. Try that again.Man 2: I'd just push the resonator back and you'll take all the hardware off.Man 1: And that's definitely heavier than the new pipe, so. Slide it off. Trash. Nice and heavy. Just probably keep the old clamps still on there because you really don't need to move them. And we'll just secure those back on. A little rusty but...bolts facing down. It should clear the firewall but I'll double-check. We don't have to move the clamps around to see. I think I'm gonna put...not sure if it matters which way you go. I just use my hips to rest the pipe on. And this is where it gets a little tricky. So I got the right one, this one lined up. This one's [inaudible 00:07:56.911] a little bit more. That's about it.Man 2: So lubricant definitely helps because they're kind of sliding.Man 1: I mean, these are pretty far through now. Can't even really move that clamp anymore. This one we got a little bit. This one's kind of stuck on there. This part has a flex pipe on it, this one doesn't, so.Man 2: All right, so we'll tighten the stock ones first. Just, the spec says 42 foot-pounds. If you want to torque wrench yours, this Milwaukee tool doesn't really have that much torque.Man 1: Washer, bolt, hand start. Give it a little torque work. Definitely one of those jobs where your arms get a little tired when you're upside down. If you have a lift, that's a whole different story.Man 2: Yeah, that's much smoother.Man 1: You have two guys holding that, one guy tightening. But it's doable. I like to alternate with this type of clamp because you don't want to just tighten one side all the way and then put the other one on. So now, down to the new clamps, which I believe is a 13-millimeter. Let's double-check. No, it's actually a 15-millimeter. Perfect. The instruction manual said I need a 13-millimeter too. I haven't seen a single thing that needs a 13-millimeter yet. The muffler is looking pretty good. It's just this side of the pipe is a little lower. So let's undo.Man 2: Do you wanna take 'em off all the way?Man 1: There we go. Kinda makes me wanna do the back first as far as tightening because you can tell a little bit better. That looks a whole lot better. Now we're about even there. So am I just gonna hold that with my knee as I tighten these back down. These guys, yeah, we got plenty of room for that. I might even do...I don't know what I should do.Man 2: Just make sure you get it on the end, on the clamp section. And then kind of like a little bit off, probably.Man 1: Yeah, just make sure the nuts are right in the middle. Let's see if we're gonna do the same thing on the other side or not. I'm gonna hand-tight this guy on.Man 2: [inaudible 00:12:54.088] firewall on the other side?Man 1: This one? No, we're pretty far away, but I'll see how much room we have in the middle here, and I'm just gonna go from there. All right, tighten this guy up. Well, so you know that this isn't going to move side to side here. So even if I can get them butted up, I'm just trying to...I just don't want any rattles in the future. I think this might be okay. For some reason, there's less space on this, on the...Man 2: Oh, you're pretty far away right there. I don't think that's gonna happen.Man 1: On the passenger side, there's a little bit more depth to the firewall and not so much on this side. And then we're just gonna follow the manual and torque it to 42 foot-pounds.Jake: That's going to wrap it up for our review and install of the C&L Cut and Clamp Resonator Delete H-Pipe fitting 2015 to 2023 Mustang GTs. Thanks so much for watching, and as always, for all things Mustang, be sure to keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Converts Factory "Resonator" Mid-Pipe to an "H" Pipe
      • Improves Exhaust Flow and Sound
      • Muscle Car Rumble
      • 409 Stainless Steel Construction
      • Cut and Clamp Design
      • Reuses Stock Catalytic Converters - Smog Legal
      • Fits 2015-2024 Ford Mustang GT, Dark Horse Models

      Description

      Improve Exhaust Flow For More Power. Replace the restrictive factory Mid-pipe Resonator on your Coyote Powered S550 Mustang with a free flowing C&L Performance Resonator Delete H-Pipe to improve your Pony's exhaust flow for an increase in horsepower, torque and overall performance.

      Muscle Car Rumble. C&L Performance's free flowing H-Pipe for the 2015-2024 GT, Dark Horse Mustangs not only eliminates the factory resonator to help increase power, but it also adds a deep muscle car rumble to the sound of your exhaust with its classic "H" crossover pipe design.

      Reuses Stock Cats. This C&L Performance H-Pipe requires cutting and removing the factory Mid Pipe resonator and clamps in place reusing the stock clamps. Best of all it reuses the factory catalytic converters saving you money and keeping you smog legal at the same time.

      Stainless Steel Construction. C&L Performance manufactures their H-Pipe from 2.5-inch diameter free-flowing mandrel bent 16 gauge 409 stainless steel tubing for it's durability and corrosion resistance. This C&L Performance X-Pipe will improve exhaust flow and last a lifetime.

      Application. The C&L Performance Cut and Clamp Resonator Delete H-Pipe is specifically designed for use on the 2015-2024 GT, Dark Horse Mustang models equipped with the coyote 5.0L DOHC V8 engine.

      C&L

      Fitment:

      Details

      C&L 408100

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) H-Pipe
      • (2) Band Clamps
      4.9

      Customer Reviews (149)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Mustang

        • Bullitt - 19, 20
        • Dark Horse - 24
        • GT - 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24
        • Mach 1 - 21, 22, 23